THE Munros that crowd the Pass of Drumochter are often passed at speed, along the A9 far below them. But they do have their own appeal, and once you are away from the busy trunk road, peace and quiet is found high up on their swooping ridges.
Geal-charn, best seen by motorists near the well-known cottage at Balsporran (with 'B&B' emblazoned on the side), also offers brilliant views down Loch Ericht. Across it rise the magnificent peaks of Ben Alder and Aonach Beag, with their mazy ridges
set amid a vast area of wilderness and patches of snow.
The walk begins in much gentler surroundings, with hillsides of purple heather – now in full bloom – allowing you to think this will be little more than a gentle stroll.
It is true that Geal-charn (meaning white peak or hill, presumably because of the loose stones that cover the rounded summit) is one of the easiest Munros to climb, but you are still in mountain country and should be fully equipped with boots, waterproofs, spare clothes, food and water. It's also wise to have a map and compass – and know how to use them – because navigation, especially on the top, can be difficult in low cloud or mist.
As you leave the estate tracks to follow a path upwards, the heather gradually thins, making way for boggy conditions. But before long, the terrain becomes stonier and the view east, across to the mountains on the other side of Drumochter, opens up.
A series of burns has gouged the hillsides to leave long, thin mounds – like heather-clad fingers – stretching down. If you are really lucky, you will get a view in the far distance, just east of south, to the pointed summit of Schiehallion.
After some huffing and puffing, and a little frustration at passing a false summit, you reach the top at 3,008ft. It is worth heading a few hundred yards to the south-west to sit down and take in the stunning vista across Loch Ericht, to some of the highest mountain country in Britain.
Once you have descended to the bealach below A' Mharconaich, it is possible to continue back up and bag this Munro as well. However, I think it is better, and somehow more natural, to tackle it another day, together with Beinn Udlamain. Instead, there is lovely descent on mainly good tracks above the tumbling waters of Allt Coire Fhar.
Distance 7 miles.
Height climbed 1,615ft.
Time 3.5 to 4.5 hours.
Map OS Landranger 42.
Park At Balsporran Cottages, by the west side of the A9 about 2.5 miles north of the Pass of Drumochter. From the south, look for the big white house with 'B&B' on the side, but don't drive right up to it – use a car park on the right just before a sign for Balsporran Cottages.
In summary Walk up to the cottages and cross the main Inverness-to-Perth railway line with care – there is no warning siren or light. On the other side, follow an estate track up towards the hills. When it forks, go left. A little further on, take a path going off to the right. This leads upwards and then gradually bears left to reach the north-east ridge of Geal-charn. Keep going as the terrain becomes stonier, until you reach the summit.
To descend, walk over the summit and bear left, then right to head south to a bealach below A' Mharconaich. At the bealach, go left and follow a path above the waters of Allt Coire Fhar, back to the car park.
Refreshments There is nothing at the start of the walk, and the closest place is Dalwhinnie, which is a few miles north. The inn in the centre of the village is surprisingly modern and has an extensive menu that will suit most tastes.
While you are in the area The Dalwhinnie Distillery (
www.discovering-distilleries.com/dalwhinnie, 01540 672219) has tours and a shop.
The full article contains 678 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
