One place they congregate in large herds is around Glen Artney, in the east of Perthshire. The estate managers prefer walkers to keep to recognised tracks rather than running the risk of disturbing stalkers. So when a friend and I headed to the area with the idea of getting off the beaten track, we did just the opposite in the interests of co-operation between landowners and hillwalkers. The route, however, was great. In the quiet area to the south of Ben Vorlich and Stuc a'Chroin, in the middle of high mountain country, we saw nobody all day.

This walk, which follows estate tracks and paths of varying quality, allows you to stride out below the two Munros and through some lonely terrain. Despite choosing a day when the heavens opened and never closed (despite dry conditions being forecast), we enjoyed a brilliant day out, surrounded by mist-shrouded hills and vast numbers of deer.

Minor landslips mean the path has been obscured along Gleann an Dubh Choirein, so a few detours are needed. These are not really a problem as the river is easy to cross and re-cross via stepping stones. The walk is relatively long and strenuous, so come prepared for a full day out in remote country.

Distance 11 miles.

Height climbed 1,600ft.

Time 5.5 to 7.5 hours.

Map OS Landranger 57.

Park Take the B827 just north of Braco and follow it for seven miles until you reach Coilcambus, a couple of miles south of Comrie. Turn left here and drive along the single-track road for five miles until you reach a church. There is a car park just past it, on the right.

In summary Continue along the single-track road, dropping down to cross the Water of Ruchill. A track leads to a white gate. On the other side of it, use either a footbridge or a ford to take a track going uphill slightly to the left. Pass a forestry plantation on the right and drop down to the right.

Ignore a left turning and carry on along the track up Gleann an Dubh Choirein. The track becomes a path as it follows Allt an Dubh Choirein and eventually reaches some ruins at Dubh Choirein, at the bottom of Ben Vorlich's south ridge. Go left here, following the river round after crossing a tributary – Allt a'Bhealaich Gliogarsnaiche.

After a couple of hundred yards, cross the river and follow a faint path going up to the left, next to some grouse butts. The path follows a burn for a while then breaks away further left to a bealach (mountain pass) between Meall na h-Iolaire and the long south-east ridge of Stuc a'Chroin.

Go straight over the bealach and drop down across the slopes of Meall Odhar – don't go too far to the left or you'll find yourself on steep, high ground. Aim for the dam of a reservoir (although the path does not quite reach it). Halfway to it, you go through a metal gate.

On reaching some buildings at Arivurichardich (a few hundred yards to the left of the reservoir dam), go left and follow a track uphill. The track then descends to meet the one you walked along earlier. Go right here to climb back up to the forestry plantation passed near the start and follow the track back to the road and car park.

Refreshments There is nothing in Glen Artney – head for Comrie, which has a wide selection of places.

While you are in the area A little further along the B827 is the Auchingarrich Wildlife Centre (01764 679469.

Alternatively, just north of Braco is the site of the large Ardoch Roman fort. Park on the right of the A822 just after the road swings right to cross a bridge over the River Knaik.