But at a time when champagne prices are moving ever upwards, this is an opportune moment to broaden our horizons when it comes to sparkling wine. New Zealand, California, England, Australia and Spain (cava), all offer superb sparkling wines at very competitive prices. If pushed, my top producers from those countries respectively would be Pelorus, Shadow Creek, Nyetimber, Green Point and Cordoníu.

But it is to the terraced hills between the little towns of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano that I return most frequently when I want a glass of bubbles. This is the home of prosecco, Italy's delicate, slightly sparkling white wine. I was once told that France was more serious about wine than any other country. If that is the case then Italy is certainly more fun. On a cold winter's day, nothing can beat the thrill of a small, chilled glass of prosecco. For the Venetians, it is the ultimate treat.

In Scotland, we have our own prosecco producer: Andrea Tumiotto. His family has been making prosecco for 40 years, but in common with most producers, it has only been in the past decade that the region's most famous wine has taken off. Tumiotto, who has been in Edinburgh for ten years, says he never considered going into the family business – until the day of his wedding (to Roslyn, now also his business partner), when a crowd of Scottish guests gave a boisterous thumbs-up to the prosecco that had been shipped over for the occasion.

"That was when we realised this wine could work in Scotland," he says from his shop-cum-office in Edinburgh's William Street. "We have this great product, we thought – why don't we try to build an export business?"

So Roslyn worked on the design and branding, coming up with the name Rocco Venezia, while her husband put the skills he had already gained working for an importing business to good use. Within a few years, Rocco Venezia, a company producing coffee, chocolate and wine from the Veneto region, was well established.

So what distinguishes prosecco from champagne? They are made from different grape varieties and by different methods, so it's no surprise they don't taste the same.

Champagne is made from a blend of chardonnay and either pinot noir or pinot meunier grapes. Prosecco is made from the grape variety that gives it its name, along with a little bianco and verdiso. Whereas champagne has its secondary fermentation in the bottle, prosecco is made by the Charmat process, undergoing secondary fermentation in pressurised stainless-steel tanks after the addition of yeast and cane sugar. Champagne has a rich, mouth-filling yeastiness. Prosecco is clean, light and delicate.

Prosecco's authenticity adds to its appeal. As Tumiotto says, they have been making sparkling wine in this region for centuries, long before anyone thought about consumers or marketing strategies. One suspects in a hundred years the Venetians will be still enjoying a glass – while the fashion-conscious British have moved on to the next tipple.

Rocco Rustico, Veneto, Italy, 11%, £8.50

Water-clear, with a slight silver hue, this is delicate on the nose with a soft, peachy aroma. The palate is dry, helped by small, dense bubbles. Soft and delicate, it is very easy to drink.

Rocco Venezia Brut, 11.5%, £13

The closest in flavour to a champagne. The nose is still distinctively dry but the palate is characterised by a dry, yeasty kick. It leaves you wanting a second glass. An ideal aperitif.

Rocco Venezia Extra Dry, 11.5%, £13

More delicate than the brut and slightly more aromatic on the nose, with light floral notes and traces of pears, apples, peaches and cherries.

Rocco Venezia Rosé, 12%, £14

A blend of pinot noir and raboso, it is pomegranate-red in the glass. The nose is dominated by delicate fruit with pure notes of cherry. The palate is searingly dry.

Stockists Rocco Venezia, Edinburgh (www.roccovenezia.com, 0870 8034914); Villeneuve Wines, Edinburgh, Haddington and Peebles (www.villeneuvewines. com); Harvey Nichols (www.harveynichols.com)